One of the most common questions I get about the topic of advanced male chastity is about how desirable is it to have a chastity piercing, such as a Prince Albert, to ensure the security of the device.
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The thinking behind it is fairly straightforward: many of the more secure, serious, and thus expensive chastity devices require the man to have a piercing in his penis so the chastity device can be locked into place properly.
Probably the most common combination is a Prince Albert piercing (where the securing pin enters the penis through a hole in the underside of the head and exits through the urethra), but there are devices compatible with frenum and ampallang piercings, too.
So, this raises a couple of questions.
First, why would anyone do this?
Well, the answer to this is simple: it makes the devices much more secure.
Most chastity devices - even full belts - can be escaped by a man who's determined to do so, provided he uses enough lubrication and can endure a little pain.
It's possible there are some devices for which this isn't true but I've yet to come across one.
But a device secured with a piercing is as secure a chastity device as you're ever going to get, simply because the penis is held prisoner with a metal pin actually passing through the flesh.
And the devices' design means there's no way to remove the device without removing the pin first, unless you're willing to tear your own flesh (very few men would want to do this, I'm sure).
And for men serious about long-term and permanent chastity, a secure device is part of the thrill.
There is something about being locked in a secure device that really does turn men on. The feeling of having no control of their own orgasms is intoxicating for them.
Just bear in mind: no chastity device is or ever can be 100% secure, meaning no man is ever kept in a chastity device against his will.
There's no doubt some devices are more secure than others, and it's likely many could only be removed or escaped from with the help of tools.
But the tools required are simple and most men probably have them already lying around in their 3D illustrasjon garage. Moreover, removing the device would be perfectly safe, too, so long as he took care.
Even a device which uses a piercing pin to keep the penis secure can be removed simply by cutting the pin (which could be done simply and safely with a pair of tinsnips or wire-cutters, say).
The second reason for the piercing is that for many men and women it's symbolic - and this symbolism is very powerful.
In a large proportion of relationships where they practice male chastity, part of the dynamic is the woman "owns" the man's penis, or at least has all the "rights" concerning it.
In these cases having the penis pierced, whether the man really wants to have it done or not (bearing in mind he always has the choice in reality, and so it's just part of the game) is symbolic of the power-exchange.
Of course, you don't need to be pierced to enjoy chastity, and you don't even need a device.
The idea you do is just another myth propagated by various people who have their own agendas for wanting you to buy into their way of thinking.
My husband, John, was pierced but he never really settled into the device, so we took the piecing out and he currently wears a Lori #2C, which is designed for un-pierced men.
At present he is in long-term orgasm denial and the reason he doesn't escape is he doesn't want to.
Male chastity is really about two people who enjoy whatever dynamic they choose to implement and is just a case of becoming informed about safe, sane and sensible practices.
The problems of concealing grouting and rough surfaces are easily overcome. Lining paper, if properly applied, will stretch over and hide the rough patches and the effect can be completed by using a heavy or embossed wallpaper.
This technique also applies to walls built of cement blocks. If you are building with brick or cement block and know that you want to wallpaper certain walls, ask your builders to apply the mortar so that you have a nice flat surface, rather than raking out the joints. With existing walls, the secret is in preparing the raw surface.
These are the tools you'll need:-
A long table or bench, a trough, sponge or foam paste applicator, scissors, soft brush for smoothing wallpaper on to wall, a ruler, plumb line, razor for cutting.
A paint sealer is applied to dry any moisture from the wall, then a latex based wallpaper liquid size. A well soaked pre-pasted wallpaper lining will be just sufficient to soften the size and bond the lining firmly to the wall so that when wallpaper is pasted over, it won't weaken in any way.
The same principle can even be applied if you are papering over rough-caste walls (walls that have been plastered and raked or scrolled upon when wet). If your brick wall has an extremely rough and raised surface it will have to be plastered over prior to wall-papering.
Here is how it's done:-
1. Prior to start working on an absorbent raw wall, you're first step is to seal and size the wall. Coat it with a paint sealer and leave to dry overnight. Next apply a latex based wallpaper liquid size; this is especially good on absorbent surfaces. This takes about an hour to dry. If time is short you can apply two coats leaving an hour between coats, instead of the over- night sealer.
2. Apply pre-pasted lining paper. Soak it in a trough to soften and roll out to arm's length. Fold over and back half-way, forming pleats to the end of the roll.
3. Holding the top piece of paper in one hand, and pleats in the other, stretch the first pleat along the wall and flatten out with sponge. Stretch next fold and flatten and so on to the end of the roll.
4. To paper around a corner, leave 25 mm (one inch) overlap and "butt" the adjacent strip of paper on to it.
5. Repeat soaking and folding procedure and bring next roll of paper lining overlapping approximately 6 mm (quarter of an inch) onto the first. By having paper on paper you will prevent the joins from edging into the grooves between bricks.
6. Leave lining paper to dry overnight. As it does so it will tighten and stretch out over grooves and rough patches on the wall surface.
7. Before applying wallpaper, coat again with the latex based wallpaper liquid size as added insurance that the lining paper has sealed properly and tightened on to the wall
8. The type of wallpaper used is important. It should be embossed or a heavy natural weave to ensure that the imprint of the design is not lost when pasted on.
9. Hang your selected wallpaper vertically in the normal way.
Sit back and admire your masterpiece.